You will notice that above that leaf spring, when that part is removed, there is a piece of black plastic. Perhaps there is a part somewhere in the mechanism that is still sticky and therefore jerks the spindle so the lp is dropped too fast? Its all done by the large cam when it is engaged to turn and search for the next lp. There is no adjustment except what you have done on what you call the leaf spring that I am aware of. Then they should have a loop, so they can move and not kink.īut-perhaps one RCA connector is bad or one RCA cord? Where the wires are vulnerable is at the other end where they make a sharp exit out the arm and are clamped and continue down the tube to the underside. Garrard did a good job connecting the wires at the carrier end of the tonearm. Then the jumping from the good ground will be necessary as mentioned above. Once it is re soldered, all should be good unless this same wire is intermittently open somewhere else. It helps to have a dial-in soldering iron where a small tip with a small amount of heat is applied. Finally the wire and solder will adhere to the lug. A small amount of acid here helps along with a small dab of solder. Melt off the insulation until you get to the conductors. Just lay the wire, insulation and all on the soldering lug. Its a simple fix if the only problem is soldering at the RCA adapter.
I take it that your rumble problem from your other thread is fixed now?Ĭalgary, The small wires defy soldering. Use a continuity tester and check from the tonearm contact points to the adapter below and find which wire, if any, is the problem,etc. Look at the cartridge, cartridge carrier wires, stylus, contact points as mentioned above, etc. Investigate all avenues before deciding its the tonearm wires. Sometimes when tightening the cartridge to the carrier, it wraps slightly the rear of the carrier and therefore the contacts on the do not make contact. Bend the head shell contact points down slightly to make better contact and make sure the contacts are clean. A bad contact point there is going to have the same symptoms. Perhaps the problem is where the carrier meets the head shell. The head shell is really tough to fix and feeding the wires through without damaging them is near impossible. If you insist on re-wiring the tonearm, I can help but reluctantly. Figure on robbing the tonearm and wires off another machine. If the problem is there, its near impossible to find the bad wire. If you are getting the hum and loss when you move the tonearm across the platter, then the problem is probably were the wires exit the tonearm and start down the tube to the underside but that is hard to say. If you can locate the bad wire on the bottom side, cut the bad wire and splice in a new piece of wire to get you to the adapting point or move the adapting point closer to where the wires emerge form above. As far as I can see, only one ground wire is necessary. If you think you have damaged one ground wire, un-solder that wire and jump the good ground wire to the spot you just un-soldered. The problem is probably under the machine where they are exposed. Robbing a good tonearm and wires and trying to feed that through the rear tonearm tube without damaging the new wires will be hard enough The pivot arm is glued as well so its really tough. Yes, the head shell comes apart but its glued together. There are only 3 or 4 super small wires in each covered wire so. It must be super small so as not to interfere with the tracking. After doing it twice, I would not suggest trying it.įinding the correct wire is the hard part. It will all come apart but its a pain in the rear. It involves disassembling the the tonearm and parts below right out to the head shell. I tried using litz wire and very light insulated wire. You sure have had problems with this machine.